Pre-prod. Costume Design

COSTUME DESIGN

For this production, i’ve been tasked with the responsibility of costume design, for which i will detail each characters specific set of clothing, justifying the choices behind the outfits & how it fits the particular style of the episode. As the vodcast is set within the 1940’s the obvious aesthetic for each character will be based around the stated era. I’ve done some research that will guide me and my choices throughout this process so that i demonstrate a clear understanding of what aesthetic will fit the shooting of this era.

1940s men’s fashion for day, sport or evening was styled to make a man feel “larger than life.” During 1941-1945, WWII fabric rations limited cloth to make suits but not style. Middle class men chose basic business suits that haven’t changed dramatically since the beginning of the century. The notorious Zoot Suit with its bright colors, baggy legs and long jackets was a complete deviation from the norm– an underground rebellion worn by inner city youth.  What makes 1940s men’s fashion unique to the decade is the cut of the clothes, the patterns and the stylistic details that demonstrated one’s patriotic support of his country (or lack there of). Zoot suits were associated with gangsters in the early 1940s due to the unpatriotic connections zoot suits had with the anti-establishment movement, as they were styled in such a contrast to the military outfit worn by a lot of men post-war. This is something to keep in mind as our main character George (Buddy Duress) is an Italian fleeing his own country as it descends into a dictatorship, and how he would want to fit in and conform to the communities/set of norms that are already displayed within that current community.

1940s Male Fashion Trends

• Square pocket suits
• Zoot styled suits
• Sturdy cotton canvas coveralls
• Textured ribbed knits
• Knit V-neck vests
• Casual collared shirts
• The Hawaiian ‘Aloha’ shirt
• Western style clothing
• Sports coats
• The fedora, also called a trilby

Women's fashion in a nutshell, was about creating an hourglass silhouette with masculine details: padded shoulders nipped in high waist tops, and A-line skirts that came down to the knee. This was the everyday shape for clothing, from suits to dresses. Even pants had a similar high waisted, wide leg shape.  If a woman was not naturally an hourglass shape, the clothes were designed to help her achieve the look. Being put together, cheerful, and practical was the job of women during WW2. 40s fashion accessories such as hats, gloves, handbags, and jewelry completed an outfit while natural makeup with bright red lips painting a happy face during difficult times.

1940s Women Fashion Trends

• Knee length A-line dresses with puffed shoulders in patriotic colors
• Plaid A-line skirts with white button down blouses
• Victory suits: man-tailored skirt and jackets
• Wide leg, high waisted pants
• Workwear overalls and jeans created the Rosie the Riveter look
• Shoes – peep-toe heels, loafers, oxfords, wedge sandals
• The two-piece bikini debuted
• Hats, turbans, head scarves, snood and flower clips topped women’s heads
• Lingerie – seamed stockings, socks, simple bra, girdle, slip and panties

Childrens fashion within the 1940s evolved from traditional styles to simpler, more pragmatic garb, although many kids still wore conservative clothing that reflected the way their parents dressed. The true break with old-fashioned children's wear didn't come until the 1950s. Cultural and international events influenced clothing styles in the 1940s, particularly the Second World War, which led to a need for cheap, utilitarian clothes. Some styles, White baby gowns, little girl’s dresses, boys pant suits and an assortment of shoes were very prevalent in that era. 1940s children’s clothing came in primary colours red, blue, white, yellow and green. Dresses were above the knee for toddlers and below the knee for big girls. A sash bow around the waist, a few simple ruffles around the puff sleeves and you have yourself an adorable 1940s children’s dress. Boys clothes were mostly casual striped knit shirt with shorts or pants. For dress-up time they wore a mini suit that looked like Dad’s. Shoes for boys embraced the penny loafer or saddle shoe. For girls, it was the classic black mary jane with socks.

1940s Childrens Fashion Trends

·       Long plaid dresses for girls

·       Black mary jane’s for girls

·       Knee cut dresses for girls

·       Cream loafers for girls

·       Striped knit shirt for boys

·       Boxy knit jumper for boys

·       Mini suit for boys

·       Penny loafers for boys

·       Saddle shoe for boys

·       Baby grows, unisex

BUDDY DURESS (George)

 

Buddy Duress’ character is a 13 year old adolescent when he moves to America, he then gets labourer job, so within this space of time he’ll be dressed with working class attire, confirming to the generic look as he will be trying his best to fit in. As his job is quite hands on, it would make sense for him to be wearing sturdy cotton canvas coveralls, these were worn by men that had to get dirty on the job. They were all one piece that buttoned down through the fly with a straight leg. They belted at the waist, had long sleeves for protection and a pointed collar. They also had big patch pockets on the chest for keeping things handy. He’ll also be wearing a fedora as for him a major thing is to be a part of the society he works in, and as they were a staple piece of fashion within that period, he’d want to maximise every opportunity he had to feel at one with the community surrounding him.

However when he gets married, his costume will develop into a mature, professional & slightly wealthier aesthetic. As his business flourishes, so does his wage packet thus resulting in his style correlating with that, bringing about a more sophisticated look. This would be depicted through the use of costume choice for George, by him wearing a plaid tailored suit, as tweed, herringbone, check, and overplaids were also very popular suiting patterns. The reasoning behind this choice is because he’s still wanting to fit in, he’s fled from his own country, knows he feels judged by the locals, and just wants to belong & have a sense of that.

JODIE COMER - (Jenny)

Jodie Comer’s character dress sense will develop from the first scene she is in, (when she first meets George) as she meets him in the ‘Music Box’ where she’ll be dressed in a casual outfit, which would be a knee length dress, stuck with a plaid A-line skirt and peep-toe heels. Jenny is also from a relatively working class background, so nothing too sophisticated, however it’s only when she gets married and the wealth from George begins to weave it’s way into her & the family that her style begins to sophisticate & develop accordingly.

         

Part of Jenny’s outfit throughout certain scenes.  

JOHN HOGG - (John Sodder)

John is first seen as a baby, but then is shown later on as a 24 year old man, so i’ll have to dress him appropriately for his age & the status that he has within the community. As his father (George) is particularly wealthy at this period in his life, this will rub off on John in terms of his aesthetic, so he will be wearing a smart, casual attire. His outfit will consist of a square pocket suit, with plaid matching suit pants, finished off with a pair of tan leather loafers. Obviously throughout the piece, his outfit will change, as for each scene he is in will warrant a different outfit, however this stated outfit is the generic aesthetic he will be set.

  Part of John’s outfit throughout certain scene’s.

JOSHUA GLENISTER - (George Junior)

George Junior is a 16 year old adolescent, who only features when walking his sisters to school, so his outfit would be styled based on the wealth & ease of his role. As he is living off the wealth & protection from his father, he will dress in a similar ilk to that of the eldest brother, John. However it will be much more casual as he’s still a teenager and not in work yet. The outfit for George Jnr, will consist of a knitter jumper, over the top of an open collared shirt, finished with some boxy cut straight legged trousers & black leather loafers.

Part of George Jnr’s throughout certain scenes.

KATHERINE ROSE MORLEY - (Marion)

Marion is a 16 year old girl, who has a job, as a waitress in a local cafe. She is seen in two scenes, one sprinting to the neighbors house after the discovery of the fire, and the other walking her sisters to school. She will be dressed with smart attire, as the wealth, like the other family members, has had an influence over the aesthetic. Her outfit will consist of, a boxy red colour coat, with some wide leg high waisted pants, finished with some toe loafers.

Part of Marion’s outfit throughout certain scene’s.

MACKENZIE FOY - (Martha)

Martha is relatively young in comparison to the other main siblings who feature, however her dress code would be catered to fit her age more appropriately than the rest. She is still her dad’s favourite, so she will dress even more sophisticated than the majority of the other siblings due to this fact. Her style will be slightly glamorized & sheek, for her age rather mature. She’s only in two scenes, and is actually one of the children that goes missing. So for the scene’s that she does feature in, the outfit will consist of, a red knitted jumper, boxy plaid patterned skirt, with some wedge sandals.

Part of Martha’s outfit throughout certain scenes.

SKYLA ROLLINS - (Sylvia)

Sylvia features in one of the most important scenes, the escaping of the house when it’s set on fire. As she is just 2 years old, her outfit will portray this, and i will depict it through her styling. Sylvia’s outfit will consist of, a teal baby grow, with some small baby loafers & a beige wool hat. This is purposeful to give the young child even more of an innocent aesthetic.

     

Part of Sylvia's out throughout certain scenes.

CHRISTOPHER TEMBEY - (Terry & Police member)

TERRY

Terry’s character is being played by an actor who will be multi-rolling, so i have to make sure that the outfit’s selected for both have a high contrast to affirm which character is which. This character only features in one scene which is situated in the street, and his character is in the street. This outfit will include, a white shirt, brown cut wide leg trousers, khaki open collared shirt, finished with some black leather loafers.

POLICE MEMBER

This officer only features for a small scene, which takes place in the interrogation room. However he will be dressed accordingly to the specific outfits that were worn by the police force in that period. This outfit will include a full navy suit, with boxy wide leg fitting trousers, a black leather belt, finished with a pair of smart varnished black leather loafers

Part of the Police Member’s outfit throughout certain scenes.

Part of Terry’s outfit throughout certain scenes.

STEVEN CLARK - (Fire Chief)

The fire chief features in only one scene, when he is contacted by the neighbour. So for this he won’t actually be in his typical fireman aesthetic. As the character at this current stage of the narrative is in his home, late at night, he’ll be dressed appropriately to add to the authenticity of the filming. So the character’s outfit will consist of, a white wool vest, with plaid bed trousers, finished with a pair of ragged slip on loafers. This is due to the fact that the character has been woken up from his sleep in the middle of the night, and hasn’t had time to get ready.

Part of the Fire Chief’s outfit throughout certain scenes.